How to stretch walls with your own hands. Methods for leveling walls in an apartment: review of methods and selection of the optimal one

Most of the houses in our country were built, as they say, “in haste,” and therefore the builders did not bother much about the quality of their work: the house was built, the deadlines were met - everything was fine. The builders were not interested in the fact that the walls in such a house were, to put it mildly, crooked. And by and large, this didn’t bother the apartment owners too much; they were happy with the new, and especially free, apartment. Now, when beautiful renovations are in fashion, the issue of leveling walls has become the most painful and almost no renovation can be done without this process.

We don’t deny that you can make repairs without leveling the walls, but in this case, be prepared for flaws that can be visible even to the naked eye. If you want to make high-quality repairs in your apartment, then leveling the walls is simply necessary.

The best way to level walls

Today there are two most common ways to level walls:

By installing structures;
Using building mixtures.

Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of both methods, as well as which method is best used in a given situation.
Leveling walls by installing structures is usually done using plasterboard. Thanks to drywall, you will not need to spend a lot of effort on leveling; you can hide communications, significant unevenness and construction errors, but thereby the usable area will be slightly reduced. You should use drywall when you have very crooked walls or you want to quickly solve this problem.

Mixtures for leveling walls do not take up the usable area of ​​the apartment; they are a better method of leveling, but require a lot of physical effort. Excellent for leveling the walls of living rooms: living room, bedroom, corridor.

We will tell you below how to properly level the walls with your own hands.

Many of us are mistaken in the concept of “wall leveling”, confusing it with surface leveling. Leveling walls is leveling the entire area of ​​the wall, and leveling the surface is getting a smooth plane. These are completely different concepts. Therefore, before preparing the walls for repairs, it is necessary to take this difference into account.

How to level walls with plasterboard

To level the walls with plasterboard we will need:
Drywall;
Metallic profile;
Suspension;
Self-tapping screws for metal;
Self-tapping screws for drywall
Serpyanka;
Sander and sanding mesh;
Putty;
Level.

Before covering the walls with plasterboard, you need to treat the first ones with a primer. This must be done in order to prevent the appearance of fungus on the wall. If you are covering a brick wall with plasterboard that faces the street, be sure to seal the seams between the bricks with cement mortar.

After the wall is prepared, we retreat 5 centimeters from it and, using dowel-nails, attach the guide profile to the floor, then at the same distance from the wall we attach the guide profile at the top. In this case, determine the exact distance from the wall using a level, taking the lower profile as a guide. Using these guides, a further frame will be constructed for attaching drywall.

Next, we attach hangers to the wall at a distance of 50-60cm from each other, with the help of which we will attach the profiles themselves to the wall. Before attaching the profile to the hangers, we check the evenness of its position using a level, and then use self-tapping screws to fix it to the hangers. The wall profile must fit into the top and bottom rails. The distance between the profiles should be exactly 60cm, since the standard width of a plasterboard sheet is 120cm, the joints of the sheets should be in the middle of the profile. As a result of simple calculations, you will probably wonder that there will be an extra profile in the middle of the sheet. Yes, indeed, there will be a profile in the middle of the sheet, but it is far from superfluous, since we need it to fasten the middle of the drywall sheet, for the strength and reliability of the structure. After you have built a structure for drywall, we proceed directly to attaching the sheets.

We fasten the sheets using special self-tapping screws for drywall, so that the cap fits completely into the sheet. The distance between the screws should be no more than 20 cm. The standard length of drywall is 250 cm, but if the ceiling height in your apartment is more than 250 cm, then the sheets must be fastened staggered, that is, we fasten the first sheet from the floor, and the next one from the ceiling and then in the same way We alternate them in this way. For the unsealed areas, we cut out pieces of drywall of the appropriate size and attach them to the structure.

Now let's start finishing the drywall. The first thing we will do is seal the seams of the drywall sheets. First you need to prime the seams well and let them dry. Then we glue self-adhesive sickle tape along all the seams. This must be done to prevent the putty from cracking at the joints of the sheets.

Now we move on to puttying the walls; to do this, dilute the putty in the proportions indicated on the package, with ordinary water at room temperature. Using a large spatula, apply putty to the seams, and using a small spatula, seal the holes from the screws. The putty layer should be very thin. When the puttying work is completed and the putty has dried, it must be sanded using a sander and sanding mesh to smooth out all the unevenness. Upon completion of sanding, apply a thin layer of finishing putty to the seams.

The final stage of work will be the complete priming of the plasterboard wall.

How to level walls using mortar

Now let's touch on a more acceptable option for wall insulation - using plaster. First, we need to analyze the curvature of the wall and the presence of a slope. To do this we need a level or plumb line. Find the outermost and deepest points on the wall. Now analyze what layer of plaster you will need to apply to the wall in order to reach the level of the most extreme point. If the outermost point occupies a small area, and the wall itself is flat, then maybe it makes sense to use a hammer drill to knock down the uneven area and then simply putty the wall, thereby saving money and time on leveling. If leveling the wall requires a more serious decision, then there are 2 options: if the wall has minor unevenness, then it must be leveled using putty; if the wall goes in any direction, has significant unevenness, or does not have any finishing at all (“bare” brick wall), then it must be leveled with a cement mixture. Below we will tell you how to level the walls yourself in the first and second cases.

How to level walls with plaster

To level the wall with plaster we will need:

Primer;
Plaster;
Level;
Spatulas.

First of all, we need to prepare the wall for leveling. To do this, we need to get rid of old wallpaper, paint and other finishing materials - we must get a “bare” wall. Dismantle the sockets, while insulating the wires well and hiding them inside the box. When the wall is ready, we move on to priming it.

Priming the walls before leveling is done to ensure that the plaster is securely attached to the wall surface and prevents the appearance of mold and mildew. It is best to apply the primer to the wall using a roller, and in hard-to-reach places, for convenience, use a brush. If the work is carried out in the summer, then it is possible that the primer will dry out quickly, in which case it must be applied in several layers. After the wall has dried, we begin to apply a layer of plaster.

It is worth noting one very important point here. There are 2 ways to apply plaster to the wall:

The first method: you level the unevenness of the wall with one layer;
Second method: apply the plaster in several thin layers, with each subsequent layer separately primed.

The first method is the simplest and does not require unnecessary costs, but the second method is the highest quality and most reliable. We will focus your attention on the second method, which we will describe in detail below.

In order to stir the mixture we need: a bucket, water and a drill with an attachment for stirring the dry mixture. The proportions in which the mixture should be stirred will be written on its packaging.

As a rule, we will have to manage 3 layers of plaster to completely level the wall. If there are irregularities, small holes, grooves, depressions, etc. on the surface of the wall itself, then we apply the so-called zero layer to get rid of these flaws. Before you start applying plaster, you must first check the wall and know its structure: in which places it protrudes and in which it falls. We need this in order to navigate in what places and what layer of plaster to apply.

Using the first layer, we try to spread the plaster in such a way as to raise the level of uneven places as much as possible. To apply plaster to the wall, take a wide spatula and apply an edge to it, with a second spatula, apply the plaster and with smooth, rounded movements apply the mixture to the wall, smearing and rubbing it in. If necessary, add plaster to the deep areas of the wall with a thin spatula, but you need to rub it with a wide spatula.
Thus, after the first application of plaster, we must get rid of irregularities and depressions. When the plaster has dried, apply a layer of primer to the wall. When the wall treated with primer has dried, we apply a second layer of plaster, which should hide the entire wall underneath, eliminating all the unevenness on it. Then we apply a primer to the second layer of plaster and wait until it dries. Next, we cover the wall with a layer of putty, we will tell you how to do this correctly a little lower, but for now we will tell you about the promised leveling of the walls using a cement mixture.

Leveling walls with cement

As we have already said, we use cement screed if our wall goes in any direction or does not have any finishing at all. In the first case, we will build up the wall in such a way as to bring the depression to the level of the convexity and cover it entirely with mortar; in the second case, we will simply apply a layer of screed to the wall.

For this we need:

Guide rails;
Level;
Cement mixture;
Putty knife;
Rule;
Master OK.

As in previous cases, be sure to prime the wall and only then begin to level it.

Before proceeding to the main stage of the robot, use a level to calculate what the layer of mixture should be in order to level the wall. To do this, apply a level to the maximum point and step back 2-3 centimeters - this is exactly the position in which the so-called beacons in the form of guide rails should be installed. Thanks to the beacons, we will control the amount of mixture thrown in to level the surface.

Prepare the mixture strictly according to the instructions. Next, using a trowel, from top to bottom, at a distance of 20 centimeters, we apply cement with slaps on which the beacons will be held. Place other beacons at a distance of one meter from each other. It is very important to set the beacons correctly before the mixture dries, otherwise you will have to do everything again. When you have strengthened all the beacons along the entire wall, check their evenness, both vertically and horizontally. If there are unevennesses, then carefully adjust the slats to the level. If the beacons are installed at a distance of more than three centimeters, the mixture may begin to flow down the wall or crack, so we once again remind you of the need to install the beacons correctly. Then we let the mixture on which the beacons are attached dry (this will take approximately 5 hours).

When the mixture holding the beacons has dried and they are securely fastened, we begin to apply the cement mixture to the wall, after wetting it. Cement must be poured onto the wall in such a way that it fills all the recesses and other irregularities on the wall. The level of the thrown mixture should protrude 2-3 millimeters from the level of the beacons; this is necessary for leveling. When the first row is thrown, we press the rule against the beacons and move it from bottom to top along the beacons, thereby obtaining a flat and smooth surface. We clean off the excess mixture and place it in a bucket with the diluted mixture. If there is not enough mixture on the surface in some places, apply it with a spatula and level it using the rule. When the first strip has dried a little, we begin to apply the mixture to the second row and so on.

Before finishing work with putty, the wall must be completely dry for 7-10 days, depending on the room temperature.

How to level walls in the bathroom and kitchen

Since both the kitchen and the bathroom are often damp, it is best to level them with a cement mixture, and in no case with plasterboard or plaster. The principle of leveling itself is the same as leveling with plaster.

The only thing worth noting is that if the wall is slightly uneven, if you are laying tiles, then perform the leveling immediately at the time of laying the tiles, applying a slightly larger layer of adhesive mixture to the uneven areas.

Leveling and finishing walls using putty

How to level walls for wallpaper and painting

As mentioned earlier, the surface of the wall is leveled and prepared using putty. The thickness of the putty layer should not exceed 2 millimeters, otherwise it may crack. The wall itself is not leveled with plaster, only the surface is leveled. Thanks to its structure, the putty can be easily sanded, bringing it to ideal smoothness and evenness.

How to align wall corners

In order to align the outer corners of the walls, use special metal perforated angles. To do this, apply a thin layer of gypsum mixture along the entire length of the corner, on both sides, and place squares on top of it. Using a spatula, hide the squares under a layer of mixture, achieving a flat and smooth surface.

How to level walls in a wooden house

You can level the surface of the wall of a wooden house using gypsum board, but first consult with a specialist.
If the wall of a wooden house goes to one side or is bent, then to do this we find the point of deviation and, using wooden beams and clamps, direct it in the desired direction.

How to level walls video

To illustrate everything we told you above, below we have added a video that talks about leveling the walls.

Modern requirements for renovation of premises have become much more stringent. Now, straight walls are an inapplicable attribute of an apartment or house. But even in new buildings it’s impossible to call walls even approximately that way, and even more so in old houses. Therefore, with almost any renovation, leveling the walls is an inevitable stage. How best to do this, about methods and technologies, the possibilities of doing it all with your own hands, and we’ll talk further.

How can I level a wall?

Although technologies in construction are developing rapidly, leveling walls is still done in two ways: plaster and plasterboard. Another thing is that there are different compositions of plaster - based on gypsum and cement, and you can install gypsum boards in two ways: on a frame and with glue. But that's all.

Smooth walls are a modern requirement

For some time, gypsum plasterboard sheets began to be replaced with gypsum fiber boards (GVL). They consisted of a mixture of gypsum and plant fibers, but they turned out to have poor impact resistance and broke even with minor impacts. Therefore, GVL leveling of walls using them is now rare (sometimes they are placed on the floor).

In Soviet times, the walls were lined with plywood. But this is definitely the last century. It is far from the best replacement for gypsum plasterboard, which in 100% of cases gives cracks at the joints, and even swells from humidity. So it turns out that there is nothing to use instead of drywall. So the choice is really not very wide.

Actually, there is still one way - . But it is used only on relatively flat walls with a difference of no more than 5 mm. Therefore, they usually putty on already leveled walls, bringing the plane to the ideal.

If we talk about how easier it is to level the walls with your own hands, then many agree that it is easier to work with drywall. But it’s also not difficult to cope with plaster on beacons. The main thing is to know the technology and not deviate from it.

Leveling walls with plaster

Plaster has two binders: cement-based and gypsum-based. Gypsum dry faster, but the maximum layer that can be applied is about 50 mm. Cement-based plasters can be applied in a layer of up to 10 cm, but they take longer to dry.

Beacon plaster is a reliable way to level walls

In addition to the thickness of the layer, when choosing the type of plaster mixture, it is necessary to take into account which of the finishes will be used later, as well as the conditions of the rooms in which you are going to level the walls. Gypsum is hygroscopic, so it is not used in wet rooms: the bathroom and kitchen must be plastered with a cement-based composition. Rooms and an entrance hall remain for plaster. That's basically what they do.

In our description we will use plaster plaster - Rotband - a popular brand that has good reviews from both amateurs and professionals.

Surface preparation

Removing everything that doesn’t stick well to the wall: beat it off, pick it out, clean it off with a spatula. If there are cracks, we repair them. Then we evaluate the degree of curvature. If there are very large protrusions that stand out too much, it is advisable to remove them (with a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill).

Often when starting to level the walls in an old house, they decide whether to knock down the old plaster if it does not fall off. In principle, the master should evaluate it, but you can try it yourself. Knock the wall. If there are places that differ in sound - they sound duller - then the layer here has moved away from the main wall. If you “hang” another layer of plaster on it, there is a high probability that the whole thing will collapse together. It will be much worse. So it is better to plaster previously plastered walls down to the base material.

If, during preparation, individual potholes that are too large appear, it is better to repair them separately. Putties have a minimum and maximum layer limit. Too much layer may fall off. Therefore, it is better to pre-fill holes or holes.

When leveling a concrete wall or a surface painted with a film-forming composition, another problem arises: it is too smooth, which is why adhesion to the plaster may be poor. This can be helped by treating a primer such as “Betonokontakt”, which leaves a rough film on the surface, improving adhesion.

Another way out is to make notches. Once upon a time they were made with an axe, now they often use a hammer drill or grinder. With their help, a notch is applied. According to the norm, there should be about 100 notches per square meter.

Primer

Depending on the type of plaster chosen (gypsum or cement), a primer is selected. Its main task is to improve the adhesion of the wall and plaster. Read the instructions for using the primer carefully. Some require the base to be moistened before application, some require dust removal, etc.

There are two favorites in this group: Cerezit 117 and Betonokontakt. There are others, but these are used more often: good reviews. The composition may be ready for use or require dilution (concentrate). It can be applied with a roller or brush, a spray bottle, or even a garden sprayer to speed up the process.

Until this moment, there were no difficulties in leveling the walls on your own. Everything is elementary. Next - a little more difficult, but also - not to build rockets.

Installation of beacons

If you want to achieve a flat surface, you can level the wall only along the beacons. These are supporting elements that are placed in the same plane. A layer of plaster is then leveled over them. As beacons, you can use special galvanized “T”-shaped beacons or even wooden planks.

It is more convenient to use metal beacons - they are installed faster. But the minimum layer of plaster is about 8-10 mm (6 mm of the lighthouse + the mortar on which it is placed). Another disadvantage is their cost: although not very much money, it is still an additional expense. One more point: galvanized plaster does not “contact” well, so after the initial drying, the beacons are removed from the wall and the holes are sealed.

Using wooden slats is a cheaper option, but finding a sufficient number of perfectly even bars in cheap material is problematic (you won’t use high-quality lumber). Even if this is successful, there is still a possibility that the tree will lead from moisture. As a result, the wall will no longer be level.

Some people make lighthouses from mortar. Pre-apply strips of plaster, leveling them. After they harden, they are used as beacons. The cheapest method, but the most labor-intensive, and requiring much more time.

How ideal the alignment of the walls will be depends on how correctly the beacons are positioned. We set it exactly - we got an excellent result. If you make a mistake, you will suffer, correcting the irregularities that you made with your own hands.

Read in detail about how to install beacons for leveling walls under the screed.

Throwing mortar

The selected plaster is diluted as indicated on the packaging. Then they throw it on the wall. Use a wide spatula or paint bucket. Start from the bottom, cover a piece of the wall with mortar from one lighthouse to another.

Beginning of plastering the wall along the beacons

Then they take the rule and set it below. Leaning on the beacons, pull up, slightly swaying from side to side. Several such passes are made until the solution is leveled. The compound adhering to the rule is removed with a spatula, again throwing it on the wall.

Again - a portion of the mortar on the wall, leveled with the rule. So all the way to the top. Having tightened one strip, proceed to another. This is how the entire wall is gradually leveled.

The first stage of plastering is completed. But this is only the first. The surface turns out to be imperfect: if you look closely, there are small irregularities. They are leveled with a more liquid solution, achieving a more even surface.

Leveling for putty

When the first layer has dried a little, but has not yet hardened (no later than 2-4 hours after application), leveling for putty begins. Existing imperfections are rubbed down with the same solution, which was diluted a little thinner than required according to the instructions. Since it is more fluid, it is applied with a wide spatula, then stretched along the wall, usually resting on the same beacons.

So they go through the entire wall again, leveling it to a perfectly flat plane. This is necessary in order to reduce the consumption of expensive putty mixture.

Removing beacons and trimming

When the solution has dried to the state of thick plasticine (press hard with your fingers, it bends), you can remove the beacons. They are pryed at the bottom with a screwdriver and pulled out.

They are removed very easily. Actually, the reason they are taken out is that they form heterogeneity in the plaster, and therefore reduce its strength.

Now we take the rule, clean it from the adhering solution and, stretching it in different directions, finally level the surface. This should be done at the initial stage of thickening, when the gypsum plaster is similar to plasticine: cutting it off is usually easy.

When the surface was leveled, diluted with Rotband. They are sealed immediately, without waiting for something: until the plaster has completely hardened, new layers stick to it well.

The solution is applied and removed with a spatula. At the same time, make sure that the surface remains level. At this point, leveling the wall for putty can be considered complete.

When leveling walls with plaster in apartments, the problem becomes the angle in which the heating pipe runs. You can't get there with a rule, but you can't get it straight with a spatula. If you are familiar with this problem, watch the following video.

Dry plaster: leveling the walls with plasterboard

Not everyone has the patience to level the plaster, in several layers, and then wait until it dries. It is faster to work with sheet material - gypsum board sheets (GCR). This technology is also called dry plaster, because there are a minimum of “wet” processes in it, and the result is no worse: if all the nuances are observed, the wall turns out to be perfectly flat.

But this technology has disadvantages. The first is that you can hang something heavy either on embedded bars laid ahead of time, or use special fasteners that will be held in place by the main wall, and not the finishing. So take this into account. The second drawback: such plaster eats up space. This is with the classic technology - installing gypsum boards on a frame. A simplified frameless design takes up much less space.

Drywall on frame

You can level any wall in this way. First, the frame is assembled. It is exposed in one plane and serves as the basis for attaching drywall. It is assembled according to certain rules:

At this point, the leveling of the walls is completed and it is ready for either wallpapering or plaster. As you can see, everything is much faster.

Gypsum plasterboard for glue

Everything is even simpler here. Since a sheet of drywall is initially flat (if it has not been stored standing up and is not bent), it can be used without any foundation.

Apply diluted glue to the walls (on brick, concrete) or gypsum plaster (on relatively flat ones). They throw small “bloopers” at him. The volume is chosen depending on how concave or convex the walls are in a given place.

Then they take a sheet of drywall, lean it against the wall, use a level to level it in the plane, pushing it in if necessary, using pressure or a fist (do not break it).

After placing the sheet straight, coat the edges with putty and apply glue to the next piece. This is how you assemble the wall. To make this type of plaster stick better, after the glue or putty has dried (24 hours or more), screw the drywall to the main wall (with self-tapping screws or dowels, depending on the type).

Everything is as simple as shelling pears, except that it is very easy to mess up. Everything is done with a minimum of emphasis, and getting changes with this method is really a piece of cake. However, if you need to quickly level the wall, you can try to do this.

If you decide to make renovations, then you are likely to encounter a problem such as crooked walls. How to level the walls in an apartment with your own hands, without involving specialists and avoiding unnecessary costs. We will look at the most common ways to get ideal wall surfaces. By choosing the one that is more suitable for you, you will definitely get the desired result.

Today, the choice of finishing technologies allows you to choose the most suitable option to make wall surfaces smooth and aesthetically pleasing. You can level the walls using:

• Plastering;
• Putties;
• Drywall;
• Wall panels.

Each repair is individual and each method has its own advantages. Let's look at each of them in order, the technology, and the tools needed for the job.

Leveling walls with plaster

When carrying out repairs, gypsum or cement plasters can be used to level the walls. The choice depends on the purpose of the room. Gypsum-based compositions are susceptible to water and moisture, but allow you to achieve an optimal microclimate in the room, allowing the walls to “breathe”, therefore they are suitable for rooms such as a living room, bedroom or children's room. Cement-based plasters are suitable for use in rooms with high humidity.

When plastering walls, a certain sequence of work is followed. The first thing to start with is preparing the surface.

Preparing the wall surface for plaster

To ensure good adhesion of the leveling mixture to the wall, it is necessary to prepare the surface. Be sure to remove all the old coating, and knock down strongly protruding areas. In this case, you need to turn off the voltage and remove the existing sockets, recess the wiring well into the grooves.

Carefully inspect the surface for cracks that need to be widened, treated with a primer and filled with mortar.

Having completed this stage of preparatory work in this way, the surface is dried and cleaned of dust.

Primer

The second step is to apply the primer. This is not difficult at all, but priming is necessary. Ready-made mixtures are available for sale, so you don’t have to do anything. Primers penetrate deep into the surface, strengthening the base. The antiseptic properties of the primer will protect and prevent the occurrence of fungus or mold, thereby maintaining a healthy microclimate in the room.

Apply the primer with a brush in corners and other hard-to-reach places. On an open surface, use a roller for application. The composition is applied twice, after the first treatment and complete drying, the surface is treated a second time.

Installation of beacons

Beacons are installed to create a flat surface when leveling walls. To construct them, you can use wooden planks, but a metal profile specially designed for this purpose is better and more reliable. These are the profiles that are used by all finishing craftsmen.

They are installed as follows. The first two beacons are installed on the wall, in opposite directions. They are attached to the wall using gypsum mortar and, until the mortar has hardened, they are set at a vertical level.

Beacons in the rest of the wall space are installed along cords stretched between them. The distance between the beacons is set so that it is 20-30 cm less than the tool that you will use to level the plaster. Level it with a rule or a grater.

Applying plaster mortar to the wall

For plastering today, ready-made mixtures are sold packaged in packages of various sizes. They must be diluted and used following the instructions from the manufacturer. Such ready-made mixtures are very easy to use, flexible, and durable.

Tools for work are a spatula, trowel, rule. First, the wall must be moistened, then the prepared plaster solution must be applied with a trowel and spatula. The layer of which should protrude 2 cm above the level of the beacons.

The solution is leveled using a rule, resting it against the beacons, evenly, with movements from bottom to top.
In places where a thick layer needs to be applied, first apply the first plaster coating and allow time to dry. Then apply a second layer on it, which is leveled along the beacons. If you used wooden profiles instead of metal ones, then after the solution dries, they are removed, and the recesses are sealed with the solution and leveled.

It will quickly lose its original appearance, and you will have to do it again. To save time and money, it is better to immediately properly level the walls. Which method of leveling walls is better to choose and how to carry out all the work?

Assessment of wall surface roughness

All methods of leveling walls are divided into two fundamentally different groups:

One way or another choose, taking into account the degree of unevenness of the walls, so this stage is especially important. You can measure how uneven the walls are laser level or regular building level.

Sequence of work looks like this:

1. preparation of the wall surface. In order for the leveling mixture to stick, the wall must be properly treated. First, all remnants of the old coating are removed, then priming is carried out for better adhesion to the plaster layer. For cement compositions, use a primer made from mortar and water, the so-called cement laitance; for gypsum plaster, it is better to use a special one;
   
2. if the plaster layer is more than 2 cm, then at this stage it is better to use reinforcing plaster mesh, which will not allow the composition to crumble. It is worth noting that if you use a ready-made factory plaster mixture, then you should pay attention to the composition: some manufacturers use polymer additives that increase the strength and degree of adhesion of the solution so much that a mesh may not be needed;
3. installation of beacons. Wooden slats or a perforated metal profile are used as beacons, which become a guideline for creating a flat surface. The latter will be more convenient for beginners, since such beacons will not have to be removed after the plaster layer has slightly hardened and then the recesses will be masked. First, two beacons are mounted at opposite ends of the wall, and the beacons are secured with gypsum mortar of the required height until ideal verticality is achieved. Three cords are pulled between the two resulting beacons: at the top, in the middle of the wall and at the bottom, and already focusing on them, intermediate beacons are installed so that they lightly touch the cord. The step between the beacons depends on the size of the tool that will be used to level the plaster mixture (usually a rule is used for this). In any case, the distance between the beacons should be 20 cm less than the length of the instrument;
4. 
   You can find a wide variety in construction stores. At the construction site, all that remains is to prepare the solution correctly, following the instructions. You can prepare a cement plaster solution yourself: mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:6, then add water to a creamy consistency. Some experts recommend sticking to a component ratio of 1:2 or 1:3; the finished mixture is more plastic, and therefore easier to handle. The finished solution is used for 1-2 hours until it begins to harden;
5. applying plaster. To do this, you can use a “falcon” and a trowel. The first is to take the mixture from a container, the second is to throw it on the wall in excess. The use of a “falcon”, a tool similar to a trowel, but larger in size, allows you to increase the speed of work. Now, as a rule, you need to evenly distribute the solution from bottom to top, leaning on the beacons. If the leveling layer is thick, then you can first apply a rough outline of the plaster, and after it dries, apply the main layer with leveling along the beacons. If wooden slats were used as the latter, then when the solution dries a little, they need to be carefully removed, the cavities filled with plaster and leveled with a spatula;
6. 
   After the plaster dries, we obtain a smooth but rough surface. To make it smooth, you need to apply thin layer of putty, and then sand the surface with fine sandpaper.

The main advantage of this leveling method is to maximize the preservation of the usable area of ​​the room. The disadvantages are the labor-intensive process, the need to prepare the base and the presence of a large amount of dust.

No. 2. Leveling walls with putty

However, do not forget that this method of leveling walls will take up a lot of usable space, and if it is already in short supply, then the room risks turning into a hole. Walls covered with plasterboard sheets will be able to withstand less load than those lined with plaster. If we are talking about a room with high humidity, then you should use moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.

Sequence of work:

1. 
   frame construction. It may consist of a metal profile. The timber does not allow achieving the desired durability of the frame, it is susceptible to the influence of moisture and microorganisms, therefore in most cases today they are used guide and rack metal profile.
   The first two profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling.
   Using a level, draw a straight line on the floor at a distance of 5-6 cm from the wall (more is possible if the curvature is large or you need to hide communications).
   Using a vertical plumb line, the line is transferred to the ceiling.
   Guide profiles are fastened along the resulting lines with self-tapping screws, constantly checking the evenness of their level using a plumb line. Between them, perpendicular to them, supporting profiles are attached along the wall using. The distance between them is 40-60 cm for plasterboard sheets 120 cm wide;

Leveling walls in a private house is an important issue when carrying out finishing work with your own hands. Such work is necessary both externally and internally.

A smooth wall surface provides appearance and the possibility of using various design solutions.

Why level the walls?

In general, leveling a wall involves elimination of all construction defects(cracks, peeling, sagging, etc.) and ensuring a smooth surface. The last condition involves the elimination of bulges and depressions, as well as height differences in both vertical and horizontal directions.

Aligning the walls, firstly, provides an attractive appearance. Secondly, any finishing requires such preparation. A flat surface is especially important for exterior finishing such as wallpaper, ceramic tiles, painting, and whitewashing.

Any unevenness on the wall significantly impairs the quality of finishing work. Leveling helps to hide all visible construction defects, which is especially important when walls are built with your own hands, without proper construction skills. Finally, modern mixtures make it possible to simultaneously provide protective functions - waterproofing and insulation.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for leveling the walls is an important stage at which it is necessary to correctly assess the condition of the surface and choose technology leveling and materials, with which you can achieve an optimal finish. Work begins with thorough cleaning of the surface from old coatings and dirt.

Leveling techniques can be divided into 2 main categories – dry and wet technology. The first option is based on fastening sheet materials (plasterboard, chipboard, fiberboard, plywood, etc.), which does not require the use of aqueous solutions. Wet technology, which includes plaster and putty, involves leveling with mixtures in a liquefied state.

The choice of method depends on the degree of unevenness of the wall. The following criteria are recognized:

• the height of unevenness is no more than 10 mm - putty can be used;
• unevenness within 10-50 mm - leveling is ensured by plaster;
• differences in the height of unevenness exceed 50 mm - it is necessary to use the dry method.

Taking into account the criteria for choosing a leveling technology, at the preparatory stage it is important to correctly assess the degree of unevenness of the wall. It is necessary to determine the presence of surface irregularities (depressions and convexities), deviation from verticality and violation of parallelism of the walls (deviation in the horizontal direction), curvature and squareness of the corner zone. To do this, the necessary measurements are taken.

Surface irregularities can be identified using a rule or a straight wooden batten about 2 m long. The device is simply applied to the wall and all irregularities under the batten become noticeable. Their size can be measured with a ruler.

The verticality of the wall is assessed using a plumb line on a long cord, which descends from the ceiling to the floor. To determine the parallelism of the walls, a tape measure is used, and horizontal flaws are determined using a building level. The quality of the corners is assessed using a square.

When violations are detected in construction, the “work front” is marked. Nails are driven into the wall near the ceiling and floor with a projection of 2-3 cm from the surface. Focusing on the plumb line, a cord is pulled between the nails, indicating a strictly vertical direction.

The cords are installed at several points, which allows you to form the future vertical surface of the leveled wall. Markings are made in the same way to correct deviations in the horizontal direction.

Alignment methods

The most common dry method for leveling walls is considered use of drywall. This sheet material is able to cover large irregularities that are difficult to eliminate with plaster mortar. Attaching drywall to the wall can be done in two main ways:

1. Drywall without frame. For frameless alignment, special glue is used. It is applied around the perimeter of the sheet and in its center using a notched trowel. Then he presses himself against the wall. Vertical and horizontal alignment is ensured by light tapping with a mallet. The joints between the sheets are especially carefully aligned. For secure fastening, you can additionally install dowels. The main disadvantage of this method is the need for preliminary surface preparation, because the size of the irregularities should not exceed 5-6 cm.
2. Drywall with frame. Almost any defects can be hidden by attaching sheets of drywall to a frame made of aluminum profiles or wooden beams. This method does not require preliminary leveling of the wall. The frame is mounted as follows:

• First, horizontal guide rails (bars) are fixed at the bottom and top along the wall. They are set according to markings and controlled by the building level;
• then the main load-bearing profiles (beams) are joined strictly vertically to them in increments of 50-60 cm. The frame is attached to the wall using dowels. Insulation and waterproofing can be laid in the cells of the frame, as well as communications and electrical wiring;
• Drywall sheets are installed on the frame using self-tapping screws. Their hats must be recessed.

Important. The final leveling of the plasterboard surface is ensured by a gypsum-based putty composition.

Seams and fastener caps must be sealed. In addition, it is recommended to apply a thin leveling layer over the entire surface.

A fairly popular wet leveling method is putty. Work begins with surface preparation - cleaning from dirt and dust, treating with antiseptic compounds if necessary, sealing minor defects and priming.

The solution is applied using a wide spatula, and a rule is used for leveling. The thickness of the putty layer depends on the size of the irregularities. Most often, it is applied in 2 layers, and the top is washed with a diluted primer solution.

To level the walls you can use the following putty solutions:

1. Gypsum putty. It is applied in a layer of up to 2-2.5 cm. It can be used under any finishing coating, but should not be used in rooms with high humidity (bathtubs, bathrooms).
2. Cement putty. The material is sufficiently moisture resistant for use in bathrooms. Apply to the wall in 2 or more layers.
3. Polymer putty. This is a modern finishing material with high water resistance. It is usually applied in a layer 2-3 cm thick.
4. Lime putty. It is used when leveling walls intended for whitewashing.

The final treatment of the putty surface is carried out after 1 day, when the solution has hardened. Using fine-grained sandpaper, surface roughness and stains are removed.

Leveling with plaster

Using plaster, you can level out significant unevenness and brick or block walls where putty does not give the desired result.

The beacon plastering process includes the following steps:

1. Surface preparation. First of all, the old coating is removed to the base of the wall and dirt, grease stains, and dust are removed. If there is mold or fungal infection, such areas are thoroughly cleaned and treated with an antiseptic (for example, a solution of copper sulfate). Next, all cracks, potholes and peelings are sealed.
2. Primer. Preparation is completed by applying a layer of deep penetration primer. If cement-based plaster is envisaged, then the primer is carried out with “cement laitance” - a mixture of cement, sand and water in a fairly liquid consistency. When plastering with a gypsum mixture, the primer must be carried out using special compounds.
3. Reinforcement. If you plan to apply a thick layer of plaster (more than 25 mm), then it is necessary to lay a reinforcing plastic mesh on top of the primer. It is fixed with a primer solution.
4. Installation of beacons. They are pieces of slats (wooden or metal) that are installed perpendicular to the wall so that their tops form a perfectly flat surface. They are attached with gypsum or cement mortar to the wall surface. Installation is ensured as follows. First, 2 beacons are fixed at opposite ends of the wall, and a cord is stretched between them. Using it as a guide, slats are installed over the entire surface of the wall in increments of 50-60 cm.
5. Throwing mortar. The mortar is applied to the wall using a falcon and a trowel. At the same time, it is first thrown into piles, which are then distributed over the surface with a grater and a grater.
6. Alignment. After distributing the main layer, a thin, leveling layer of a solution of a more liquid consistency is applied. Alignment is done to the vertices of the beacons using a rule. Beacons become guiding elements for the tool.
7. Removing beacons, trimming and filling. After the solution hardens, the beacons are removed from it. The excess mass is trimmed and the recesses left by the beacons are sealed. To give the surface perfect smoothness, apply a thin layer of putty. The plaster is finally completed by sanding with fine-grain sandpaper.

When leveling walls with plaster, you will need the following tools: a trowel or trowel, a trowel, a grater and a trowel, usually spatulas of different widths, a container for preparing the mortar, a construction mixer for mixing the ingredients of the mortar, a hacksaw for preparing beacons, a chisel and pliers for removing them, fine emery cloth.

How to align the corners of the walls?

Wall decoration mainly begins with leveling the corners, i.e. Forming an angle close to 90 degrees with a clear shape. The technology for processing external and internal corners has its own characteristics.

The external (outer) corner is most often leveled using a special corner. It is desirable that it be edged with reinforcing mesh.

This element is fixed at the junction of the walls using self-tapping screws or deposited on plaster or gypsum mortar.

Sometimes both options are combined for reliability. When attaching to plaster, the mortar is applied along its edges, smoothing out unevenness, and then the corner is pressed into the mortar with force. The extruded mass is evenly distributed over the surface. It is recommended to use an aluminum profile as a corner.

The inner corner requires special care and precision of movements. It can be formed in two ways:

1. Drywall. The sheets are joined in the corner strictly at 90 degrees, which is controlled by a square. The seam is puttied, a reinforcing mesh is also glued on, or a counter-shultz is used. The solution is leveled with an angled spatula.
2. Plaster. A reinforcing mesh is applied in the very corner of the walls. Then the solution is poured over it, which is first distributed onto one wall, and then onto the adjacent plane. A clear angle shape is ensured with a spatula and (or) a rule.

When leveling the corners, do not rush. Each master has his own secrets for such finishing. For example, when finishing an outer corner, it is better to simultaneously use 2 spatulas in both hands. This way you can quickly and clearly form a joint line.

What do you use to level it?

When leveling walls in a private house, homemade solutions or ready-made, purchased mixtures can be used. The following basic materials are distinguished:

1. Cement-sand mortar. This option is most widespread. The solution is prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. For exterior finishing, it is recommended to use Portland cement of a grade not lower than M400. For interior work, cement M200 or M300 is quite suitable. The main advantages are increased strength, fairly high moisture resistance, low cost. Disadvantages include the risk of cracking during drying, high specific gravity, and the need for finishing due to the unattractive appearance.
2. Cement-lime mortar. In this plaster, slaked lime is used instead of sand. The main purpose is interior work. This solution has increased adhesion to walls made of different materials. It is not susceptible to harmful microorganisms. When applied, the solution retains high elasticity for a long time. The main disadvantage is reduced compressive strength.
3. Gypsum mixture. It is usually made from alabaster with the addition of mineral fillers. It can only be used indoors. The main advantage is provided by the white color, which makes it possible to refuse the topcoat or use translucent materials. The material does not shrink, which eliminates the risk of cracking. The main disadvantage is reduced strength and hydrophilicity.
4. Heat-saving mixtures. This plaster composition is prepared on a cement-lime base with the addition of polymer fillers. In particular, polystyrene additives are used. This material has increased thermal insulation properties, which helps save heat in the room without the use of additional insulation.

Features of leveling concrete walls

It remains a fairly common material in the construction of walls of private houses. Reinforced concrete panels have high mechanical strength, which determines their use. Leveling walls with plasterboard reduces the load-bearing capacity, because... Heavy objects cannot be attached to such sheets. This circumstance limits the use of this method when leveling concrete walls.

The main leveling technology is plaster. When applying it, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

1. Concrete does not absorb the solution, which impairs adhesion. This condition necessitates the use of special primers. In addition, superficial incisions can be made.
2. Plaster on a concrete surface hardens much longer than on brick or block masonry.

To strengthen the plaster on a concrete wall, it is recommended to use a mounting, reinforcing mesh over the entire surface. If the solution is applied directly to concrete, it should be rubbed in with some force.

What is the best way to level wooden walls?

Any wooden wall has a significant degree of unevenness. The log house stands out in particular (read:). In addition, wood can actively absorb water. These conditions practically exclude the possibility of leveling the walls using a wet method.

The best option is sheet cladding, in particular drywall or. Before finishing, all wood must be thoroughly impregnated with a deep-penetrating antiseptic composition. For wooden walls, frameless technology is quite suitable, and no glue is needed.

Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or nails directly to the wood. Putty is applied over the drywall. The joining seams are securely sealed.

The question of what and how to level the walls in a private house is decided taking into account their design and the degree of unevenness. Different technologies can be used, but it is important to choose the right quality material. The work can be done with your own hands if you properly take into account the recommendations of specialists.